PAPYRUSSE GILET, in gray and royal blue silk and cotton, gra - Lot 106

PAPYRUSSE GILET, in gray and royal blue silk and cotton, gray back and ivory lining. Size M. History of the papyrus vest The Siamese ambassadors to Louis XIV (September 1, 1686) wore this kind of transparent lace applied to damask. This fabric was only manufactured for a short time between 1689 and 1710. As oriental influence is unknown, this type of fabric has been described as bizarre. The Musée des Textiles de Lyon presents a small collection of oddities. The floral, moving pattern was copied by Art Deco designers. Realistic, poetic and musical, this vest is often chosen by the artist. Fabrics woven with rich motifs, often brocaded in gold and silver, known as "bizarres" according to an appellation established in the early 20th century, were first produced on Lyon looms, and almost simultaneously on those of Veneto. They are remarkable for their decorations composed of elements borrowed from the Chinese, Japanese and Persian ornamental repertoires. These combinations often resulted in unrealistic, even abstract designs. These fabrics were intended for both men's and women's clothing, but were considered too fanciful to be used for interior decoration. Frequently copied by English and Dutch workshops, they enjoyed a long period of public favor, from around 1690 to 1725. The papyrus vest is cut individually from a reproduction of a bizarre fabric. Its blend of cotton and silk guarantees luminosity, softness and strength. Its motifs perfectly illustrate the influence of the Orient since the official visit of Siamese ambassadors to Louis XIV on September 1, 1686.